For a small Melbourne ensuite, start with a layout that keeps the shower and toilet zone separate from the vanity where possible, choose wall-hung and compact fixtures, and plan recessed storage. Good task lighting and privacy glazing make the room feel larger and more comfortable, while a properly ducted exhaust fan prevents moisture damage. Baroco in Mount Waverley can help you compare fixtures and plan a compliant renovation.
01Layout strategies for a compact ensuite
In a small ensuite, every 100 mm counts. Before you move walls, measure the room and sketch the existing plumbing points. The most common workable arrangement is a 900 mm x 900 mm shower in the corner, a wall-hung toilet next to it, and a 600 mm vanity on the opposite wall. This keeps the wet zone away from the doorway and leaves clear floor space for opening doors.
If the room is long and narrow, run the vanity and toilet along one wall and put the shower at the far end. Avoid placing the toilet directly opposite the door if possible, as that is the first thing you see and can make the room feel cramped. You can also use a cavity slider instead of a hinged door to save about one square metre of swing space. Any changes to wall positions or plumbing lines need a licensed plumber, and structural changes need building advice before you start.
02Space-saving fixtures and fittings
Wall-hung toilets and vanities open up floor area and make cleaning easier. A rimless pan with a concealed cistern uses the same wall depth as a standard cistern but looks far less bulky. For the shower, a pivot door or a single fixed glass panel will take less room than a hinged door. If the room is very tight, a wet-room style shower with a floor waste and a glass screen only where needed can work, but the floor must be waterproofed to Australian Standard AS 3740 by a licensed waterproofer.
Choose a basin that is no deeper than necessary and tapware that does not project too far into the room. A compact 500 mm vanity can still hold essentials if paired with a mirrored cabinet above. Avoid double basins in an ensuite smaller than about 1.8 m by 2.2 m; it is rarely worth the lost bench space.
03Storage that doesn't crowd the room
Recessed storage is the most effective way to add capacity without reducing floor area. If you are re-sheeting walls, create a niche in the shower between studs for shampoo bottles, and a recessed mirrored cabinet over the vanity for daily items. A shallow cabinet can be built into the wall cavity; even 120 mm of depth is enough for toothbrushes and shaving gear.
For a vanity, choose a wall-hung unit with a single drawer or shelf rather than a floor-standing cupboard. An open shelf below a basin can look airy but requires neat storage baskets. Use the space above the toilet for a narrow cabinet or floating shelves, but keep items in closed boxes so the room does not read as cluttered. If you can steal space from an adjacent bedroom wardrobe, a 200 mm deep full-height recessed cabinet is a good place for towels and spare linen.
- Use wall recesses instead of protruding shelves.
- Choose a mirrored cabinet with internal power for toothbrush charging.
- Keep at least 900 mm clear floor in front of the vanity.
04Lighting for a small ensuite
Small rooms can feel dark if you rely on a single ceiling light. Layer your lighting: a bright, dimmable ceiling light for general use, a task light over or beside the mirror, and a soft waterproof light in the shower. The mirror light should be positioned at face height on both sides or above, but avoid lighting from directly overhead only as it casts shadows on your face.
Use warm white LED (about 3000 K) for a comfortable feel, and choose fittings with an IP rating suitable for the zone. Lights inside the shower must be rated for that location. An electrician must install or alter any fixed wiring and should confirm the fittings meet Australian Standards. If you can, add a motion-sensor night light near the floor so you do not need full brightness for a midnight visit.
- Layer general, task and shower lighting.
- Use dimmable warm white LEDs for comfort.
- Have an electrician confirm IP ratings and wiring.
05Privacy without losing light
Many Melbourne ensuites have a window facing a neighbour or street. You can keep natural light and privacy with frosted or textured glass, or by using a roller blind that screens from the bottom up. If you are replacing the window, consider a high sill or a fixed pane of frosted glass that still allows ventilation via a separate louvre or an exhaust fan.
For internal privacy, a cavity slider with a privacy lock is better than a standard hinged door because it does not swing into the room. If the ensuite is off a bedroom and you prefer openness, a frosted glass sliding door can work, but check that the bathroom exhaust fan is strong enough to keep steam from entering the bedroom. A nib wall or a half-height partition can also screen the toilet from view without making the room feel closed off.
06Ventilation and moisture control
A small ensuite needs mechanical ventilation even if it has a window. Choose an exhaust fan rated for the room volume and run it to outside, not into the ceiling cavity. The fan should be on a timer or humidity sensor so it runs for at least 10 minutes after a shower. If the room is fully internal, a ducted exhaust is essential and may need to be installed by a licensed electrician and plumber depending on the ducting route.
Waterproofing is the most important hidden part of an ensuite renovation. The walls and floor in the shower, and often the whole floor and part of the walls, must be waterproofed to AS 3740 by a licensed waterproofer before tiling. Check that the existing subfloor is sound and that the falls to the waste are correct. Before you choose fixtures, it can help to see them in person. The Baroco showroom at 21/105-111 Ricketts Road, Mount Waverley has toilets, basins, vanities and tapware on display, and the team can talk through what will fit your ensuite and coordinate the renovation from measure to fit-off. Phone ahead on 0426 520 859 to arrange a time.
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What is the minimum size for an ensuite in Melbourne?
There is no universal minimum, but a practical ensuite is about 1.8 m x 2.0 m. This allows a 900 x 900 mm shower, a compact vanity and a toilet with clear circulation space. If your room is smaller, consider a wet-room layout and wall-hung fixtures. You will still need to meet building and plumbing requirements.
Do I need a window in an ensuite?
A window is not always required if you have a compliant mechanical exhaust fan. A ducted fan that vents to outside and runs on a timer or humidity sensor will remove moisture. If you do have a window, it can supplement ventilation but does not replace the fan in a shower room.
Can I move the toilet or shower drain in an ensuite renovation?
Yes, a licensed plumber can relocate drainage and water supply lines, but it may require opening the floor and altering joists if the fall is tight. Moving a toilet across a room can be costly because the waste pipe needs a suitable fall to the existing stack. Always get a plumber to inspect before committing to a layout.
How long does an ensuite renovation take?
The time depends on the scope, but a typical small ensuite renovation includes strip-out, rough-in of plumbing and electrics, waterproofing and inspection, tiling, and fit-off. Waterproofing needs to cure before tiling, and you should allow for product lead times. A specific schedule should come from your builder or renovation company after measure and product selection.
