Good bathroom lighting combines three layers: ambient light for overall brightness, task light at the mirror and vanity for grooming, and accent or mirror lighting that reduces shadows. All fittings in wet areas must be rated for the zone they are installed in, and any new lighting circuit or fitting should be installed by a licensed electrician.
01The three layers of bathroom lighting
A well-lit bathroom uses three layers. Ambient lighting provides general brightness across the whole room, usually from ceiling-mounted downlights or a central fixture. Task lighting focuses light where you need it most, particularly around the mirror and vanity. Accent lighting is optional but can highlight a niche, a freestanding bath, or a feature wall.
Start by mapping where you stand and what you do. You need enough light to shave, apply makeup, or clean safely. A single centre light often leaves corners dark and creates shadows at the basin. Layering helps you control mood and function separately.
For most Melbourne bathrooms, combining a dimmable ambient layer with dedicated mirror lights and one or two downlights over the shower or bath works well. Keep the layers on separate switches where possible.
02Mirror lighting and avoiding shadows
The most common lighting mistake is placing a downlight directly above the mirror. That throws shadows down over your face, making shaving and makeup harder. Better options are vertical wall lights mounted on either side of the mirror at about eye level, or an LED mirror with built-in lighting that spreads light evenly across your face.
If you use side sconces, space them roughly 600 to 700 millimetres apart and position the centre of each fixture at about 1500 to 1600 millimetres above the floor. This suits most standing heights. For a wall-hung or above-counter basin, you can also install a slim LED strip across the top of the mirror, but pair it with side lighting if possible to reduce under-eye shadows.
If your vanity is wide, consider a mirror with integrated lighting across its full width. These units often include a demister pad, which keeps the mirror clear after a hot shower.
03Colour temperature: warm or cool?
Colour temperature is measured in kelvins (K). Lower numbers look warmer and more yellow; higher numbers look cooler and more blue. For bathrooms, 2700K to 3000K is a comfortable warm white that flatters skin tones and feels relaxed. 4000K is a neutral or cool white that suits task-oriented areas and gives a crisp, clinical feel.
Many Melbourne homeowners choose 3000K for the main bathroom because it balances warmth and clarity. If you have a separate powder room or a bathroom used mainly for grooming, 4000K can work well, but avoid mixing very different colour temperatures in the same room.
Check the Colour Rendering Index (CRI) on LED fittings. A CRI of 90 or above shows skin tones and tile colours more accurately, which matters at the mirror.
04Dimmers and controls
A dimmer on the ambient layer lets you lower the light for a late-night bath or a child's visit to the toilet. Not all LED fittings and dimmers work together, so check compatibility before buying. If the dimmer is not rated for the LED driver, you can get flicker or buzzing.
Run task lighting and ambient lighting on separate switches. That way you can have bright light at the mirror while the rest of the room stays dim. If the exhaust fan is on the same circuit, consider a separate switch or a run-on timer so the fan keeps running after the light is off.
Smart switches and motion sensors are becoming more common in bathrooms. A motion sensor with a low night-time setting can be handy for overnight use, but make sure it is rated for the room's humidity and installed by an electrician.
05IP ratings and wet-area zones
IP stands for Ingress Protection. The two digits tell you how well a fitting resists solids and water. For example, IP44 means protection against splashing water from any direction, while IP65 means protection against low-pressure jets. In a bathroom, the required IP rating depends on the zone around water sources.
Australian electrical standards divide bathrooms into zones. Zone 0 is inside the bath or shower base. Zone 1 extends above the bath or shower up to 2.25 metres from the floor. Zone 2 extends 0.6 metres around the bath or shower and up to 2.25 metres. Outside these zones, there is no specific IP requirement, but fittings should still be suitable for a humid space.
As a guide, fittings in zone 0 must be low voltage and rated for immersion. In zones 1 and 2, fittings should be at least IPX4 (splash-proof). A ceiling light directly above a shower rose is usually in zone 1 and must be appropriately rated. A heated towel rail in zone 2 must also meet the standard. Your licensed electrician will confirm the correct rating for each position.
Never guess on zones. The rules exist because water and electricity are dangerous. A licensed electrician must install or alter any fixed wiring, and they will check that every fitting is approved for its location.
- Zone 0: inside bath or shower – low voltage, immersion rated.
- Zone 1: above bath or shower up to 2.25 m – minimum IPX4.
- Zone 2: 0.6 m around bath or shower up to 2.25 m – minimum IPX4.
06Planning your bathroom lighting with an electrician
Bring your electrician into the conversation early, before walls are sheeted. They can run cables for side sconces, mirror lights, and separate switches before waterproofing and tiling start. Moving a light point after tiling is expensive and disruptive.
Walk through the room with your electrician and mark where each fitting will go. Check the shower rose, bath spout, and basin positions so the lights line up with where you actually stand. Also decide whether you need a shaver socket inside a cabinet, a heated towel rail, or an exhaust fan with a light.
If you are still choosing fittings, the Baroco showroom in Mount Waverley displays a range of bathroom lighting, mirrors and bathroom products. You can see how different colour temperatures and mirror lights look in person, and the team can help you select fittings that suit your layout. Call ahead to arrange a visit.
Planning this for your home? See how we design, supply and build it, or visit the Mount Waverley showroom.
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Still unsure? Call 0426 520 859 and talk to someone who actually installs this stuff.
What IP rating do I need for bathroom lights?
It depends on the zone. Lights inside a bath or shower base (zone 0) must be low voltage and immersion-rated. Fittings above a bath or shower up to 2.25 metres (zone 1) and within 0.6 metres around them (zone 2) should be at least IPX4. Outside these zones, no specific IP rating is required, but choose moisture-resistant fittings. A licensed electrician will confirm the rating for each position.
Can I install or move bathroom lights myself?
No. Fixed wiring and installation of light fittings must be done by a licensed electrician. In Victoria, it is illegal for an unlicensed person to do this work. The electrician will ensure the circuit is safe, the fitting is suited to the wet zone, and the work meets Australian Standards.
What colour temperature is best for a bathroom?
Most homeowners find 3000K warm white is a good all-round choice. It gives a clean, natural light without looking too clinical. If you prefer a softer, more relaxing feel, use 2700K. If the bathroom is mainly for grooming and you want maximum clarity, 4000K may suit. Avoid mixing very different colour temperatures in the same room.
Do I need special dimmers for LED bathroom lights?
Yes, the dimmer and the LED driver must be compatible. A standard dimmer made for halogen or incandescent bulbs often causes flicker or buzzing with LEDs. Check the manufacturer's compatibility list or ask your electrician to supply a matched dimmer. It is also good practice to put the ambient layer on a dimmer and keep the mirror task lighting on a separate switch.
