A bathroom renovation moves through defined stages: measure and design, product selection, strip-out, plumbing rough-in, waterproofing, tiling and fit-off. Each stage is regulated, especially waterproofing and electrical work, which must be done by licensed trades to Australian standards. Planning decisions early reduces delays and cost changes later.
01Step 1: First visit, measure and site check
A good renovation starts with a site visit. The person measuring should check plumbing locations, wall and floor construction, subfloor access, and whether the room is on a concrete slab or timber floor. They should also check water pressure and pipe condition if accessible.
Talk about how you use the bathroom. Do you need a bath, separate shower, double basins or more storage? Note anything that annoys you about the current layout: lack of light, poor ventilation, cramped toilet.
If the renovation is in an apartment or unit, check body corporate rules and any approvals needed before work starts. This is the homeowner's responsibility, but a good builder will ask early.
- Check wall and floor construction
- Measure fixtures and clearances
- Discuss daily use and must-haves
- Check body corporate rules for apartments
02Step 2: Design, product selection and written quote
Once measurements are taken, set the layout. Working within existing wet area walls is cheapest; moving a toilet or drain across a slab can be done but costs more. Think about door swings, towel rails and clearances.
Choose tapware, basins, toilet, shower and bath before the quote is finalised. Rough-in positions depend on exact models. Wall-hung vanities need extra wall framing, and rimless toilets or Washlet seats need power and water points in the right spots. A written quote after measure protects both you and the builder.
Avoid choosing products online by looks alone. Handle tapware, test the flush, sit on the toilet if you can, compare finishes. A showroom visit prevents buying a basin too deep for the cabinet or a shower that won't fit the existing waste.
- Finalise layout before finishes
- Confirm exact models for rough-in
- Check power and water points for bidet seats
- Get a written quote listing all works
03Step 3: Strip-out, plumbing and electrical rough-in
The old bathroom is removed down to the wall frame or masonry. This is dusty work, so seal off the rest of the house and protect floors. The builder should cap off water and gas, isolate circuits, and remove waste safely. Asbestos may be present in older Melbourne homes; if suspected, it must be tested and removed by a licensed removalist.
Once stripped, the plumber and electrician set new pipework, drainage, mixer positions and cable runs. This is rough-in. Make any layout changes now, before walls are closed. Walk through the room and mark where the shower rose, taps, toilet and towel rails will go.
If you are moving walls, this is when structural work happens. Structural changes need a building surveyor and possibly a permit. A licensed builder can advise.
- Seal off the work area
- Check for asbestos in older homes
- Set all pipe and cable positions before walls close
- Walk through before sheeting
04Step 4: Waterproofing, screeding and tiling
Waterproofing is the most important stage you don't see. The bathroom floor and shower walls must be waterproofed to the National Construction Code and AS 3740. The shower recess needs a membrane up the walls and a floor waste that drains correctly. Let the membrane cure fully before tiling.
The tiler then sets floor and wall tiles, including the fall to the floor waste. In a walk-in shower, the fall must be built into the screed before waterproofing. Large-format tiles need a very flat substrate, and heavy tiles may need extra preparation.
Ask your tiler to use a waterproofing system with a warranty, and keep photos of the waterproofing before tiles go on. If you see pinholes, gaps or thin areas, raise it before tiling.
- Waterproofing must comply with AS 3740
- Allow the membrane to cure fully
- Check fall to the floor waste
- Photograph waterproofing before tiling
05Step 5: Fit-off, caulking and final touches
Once tiling is complete and grout has cured, the plumber and electrician return to fit off: install the toilet, basin, taps, shower screen, mirror, power points and lighting. Check that hot and cold are on the correct sides, waste pipes don't leak, and the toilet flushes properly.
The builder then installs the vanity, shelving, towel rails and accessories. Silicone is applied at internal corners and around the bath, basin and shower base. Use flexible, mould-resistant sealant, not grout, because grout in corners will crack.
Ventilation is often overlooked. If your bathroom has no window or a poor exhaust fan, upgrade to a fan ducted to outside that runs for at least 10 minutes after showering. This reduces mould and protects new finishes.
- Test all fixtures for leaks and function
- Use flexible silicone at changes of plane
- Install a ducted exhaust fan
- Check hot and cold orientation
06Step 6: Handover, inspection and ongoing maintenance
At handover, walk through the room with the builder. Test every tap, the shower, toilet, drain and power point. Make a list of minor defects or adjustments. A good builder will fix these before final payment. You should receive product warranties, care guides and spare parts such as grout or tile offcuts.
For the first week, avoid using the shower for at least the time specified by the waterproofing and silicone manufacturers, usually 24 to 48 hours after the last silicone. Keep the room ventilated. Clean with pH-neutral cleaners; harsh acids or abrasive pads damage stone, chrome and epoxy grout.
If you want to see the types of fixtures and finishes available before your own renovation, visit a showroom. Baroco Interior Innovations has a showroom at 21/105-111 Ricketts Road, Mount Waverley, where you can see toilets, basins, tapware, showers and baths, and speak to someone about your project. Call ahead on 0426 520 859 because opening hours vary.
- Test everything at handover
- Keep tile offcuts and spare grout
- Use pH-neutral cleaners
- Wait 24-48 hours after silicone
Planning this for your home? See how we design, supply and build it, or visit the Mount Waverley showroom.
Bathroom renovations · Try the AI bathroom previewRelated questions
Still unsure? Call 0426 520 859 and talk to someone who actually installs this stuff.
Do I need a permit for a bathroom renovation?
Usually not if you are replacing fixtures in the same location and no structural changes. But if you move walls, change drainage or affect waterproofing, a building permit may be required. Check with your local council or building surveyor. In an apartment, body corporate approval may also be needed.
How do I choose between a walk-in shower and a bath?
A walk-in shower uses less water and is easier to access, but a bath is useful for families and resale. If you have space, consider both. If the bathroom is under 5 square metres, a shower over bath can save space. Think about who uses the room daily.
Can I buy my own fixtures to save money?
Yes, you can supply your own fixtures, but they must be compatible with the rough-in positions and Australian standards. If a product fails, you are responsible for the replacement cost and extra labour. Some Melbourne homeowners visit the Baroco showroom to see and test products before deciding.
What is the most common mistake in bathroom renovations?
Skipping proper waterproofing or using the wrong fall to the floor waste. This causes leaks and mould. Other common mistakes are changing selections after rough-in, poor ventilation, and using grout in corners instead of flexible silicone.
